
filass 
Book 



COPYRJGKT DEPOSIT 



V 




KNIGHT, LEONARD & CO. PRINTERS, CHICAGO. 



▼ V/ 



-r^ VlA-THC 




1 




A GLIMPSE 



GREAT SALT LAKE 



UTAH. 



_L LUST RAT ED, 

l^nlo^ lo\^\4\C t5\\\\A/?\vj C(i»rhpi^r\ 



ON THE LINE OF 



HI 



70^' 



I70 LInion J)aeinc (^y^^tem. 



THE OVERLAND ROUTE. 



1893. 




^%'^' 



'Zp 



?A'^ JJ^ 



Presented with Compliments 

Passenger Department 

Union Pacific Syster 



Illustrated from 
^ Original Sketches by 

Mr. Alfred Lambourne. 




"■^5*^^ 



Copyiighted March, 1893, by 

E. L. Lomax, General Passenger and Ticket Agent, 

Omaha, Neb. 



L-ISX OF= MCeNTS. 



Boston. Mass.— '•ii'it Washington Street. 

W. S. CONDKLL. New KnKlanil Fieisht unci Pas- 
senger .VgeiU. 

E. M. NKWBlXilN. Tiiiveling Kieighl and Pnssen- 
ger .\gent. 
Butte, Mont. — Corner Main and Broadway. 

E. \'. MAZE, General Agent. 
Chattanooga. T6nn.—~'l H. Eighth Street. 

1'. \j. LYNDE, 'I'raveling Passenger Agent. 
Cheyenne, Wyo. 

C. \V. SWEET, Freiglit and Ticket Agent. 
Chicago. 111.— 191 Soutli Clark Street. 

\V. T. HOLLY, City Passenger and Ticket Agent. 

T. \V. YoUNCi. Traveling Passenger Agent. 

Cincinnati, Ohio.— -'? West Fourth Street. 

.1. I). WEl-Sll, (ieneral Agent Freight and Passen- 
ger DepMrtments. 

T. C. lURS'l', 'I'raveling Passenger Agent. 

A. (;. SHi:.\RMAN, Travelmg Freight and Passen- 
ger Agent. 
Colorado Springs, Colo.— 14 Pikes Peak Ave. 

W. (.;. R\r\:. City Ticket Agent. 
Council Bluffs. Iowa.— U. P. Transfer. 

A. -L M.VXDKKSox. (ieneral Agent. 

R, W. CHAMBERLAIN. Passenger Agent. 

.1. \V. MAYNAKI), Ticket Agent. 

.1. C. MITCHELL, City Ticket Agt., 421 Broadway. 

Denver, Colo.— lin:-i l^arimer Street. 
GEO. ADY', General Agent. 

C. H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

E. G. PATTERS<1X. City Ticket Agent. 

F. G. ERB, City Passenger Agent. 

SCOTT BRY'AN, Ticket Agent. Union Depot. 
Des Moines, Iowa.— 218 Fourth Street. 

E. M. FORI). Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Detroit, Mich. — 155 .Tefferson Avenue. 

1). \V. .lolIXSTON, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Ft. Worth. Texas. 

D. B. KEELER, General F'reight and Passensrer 
Agent. Ft. Worth & Denver Citv Railwav. 

A. .]. RATCLIFPE, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

N. ^. DAX'IS. City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 401 
INIain Street. 
Helena, Mont.— 28 North Main Street, 

H. I). WILSON, Freight and Passenger Agent. 
Kansas City, Mo.— 1038 Union Avenue. 

J. B. FRAWLF:Y, General Agent, Passenger Dept. 

.1. B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

H. K. PROl'DFIT, Citv Passenger Agent. 

T. A. SHAW, Ticket Agent. 

C. A. WHITTIER. Citv Ticket Agent, 101)0 Main St. 

A. W. MILLSPAUGH; Ticket Agent, Union Depot. 
London. England.— Ludgate Circns. 

THOS, COOKct SOX, European Passenger Agents. 
Los Angeles, Cal.— 22S) South Spring Street. 

(i. F. I1I:RR. Passenger Agent. 
New Orleans, L^.— 158 Common street. 

.1. P. DOUGLAS, Ji:.. (ieneral Agent. 
New Whatcom, Wash. 

F. R. JOIIXSOX. Ticket Agent. 
New York City.— 287 Broad way. 

R. TENBROECK. (ieneral Eastern Agent. 
S. A. HUI'CIIISOX. Traveling Passenger Agent. 
.]. I). TEXBKOEC'K, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
A. Ll'XDCillST. Traveling Passenger Agent. 
J. F. WILEY', City Passenger Agent. 



Oakland, Cal.— Twelfth Street and Broadway. 

GE(J. B. SEA MAX, Passenger Agent. 
Ogden, Utah.— Union Depot. 

C. A. IlEXRY, Ticket Agent. 
Olympia, Wash.— Percival's Wharf. 

.1. ('. PERCIVAL, Ticket Agent. 
Omaha, Neb.— Ninth an<l Farnani Streets. 

I'ifAXK X. PROPHET, Traveling Passenger Agt. 

U-VRRY P. DEUEL, City Ticket Agent, 1802 Far- 
nain Street. - 

(iEO. .1. BU(;K INGHAM, Citv Passenger Agent. 

.L K. CHAMBERS, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. 
Pittsburgh, Pa.— Rooms 807 and 308 Ferguson 
Block. 

S. V. MILBOURNE. Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Portland, Ore.— 2."j4 Washington Street. 

W. 11. IIURLBURT, Assistant General Passenger 
Agent. 

GEO. H. HILL. Traveling Passenger Agent. 

A'. A. SCHILLING. Citv Ticket Agent. 

A. .1. (iOODRICH, Citv Passenger Agent. 

E. S. VAX KURAN, Tkt. Agt., (ir'd Cent! Station. 
Port Townsend, Wash.— Inion Wharf. 

II. L. TIBBALS, Ticket Agent. 
Pueblo, Colo,— I or. Union Ave. and First Street. 

A. S. CUTHBERTSON, General Agent. 
St. Joseph, Mo.— Chamber of Commeree. 

S. M. ADsri', General F^reight and Passenger .\gt. 
St. .loseph & Grand Island Railroad. 

F. P. WADE, City Ticket Agent, Cor. Third and 
Francis Streets. 

JO. HANSON, Ticket Agent. Union Dei>ot. 
St. Louis, Mo.— 218 North Fonrth Street. 

J. F. AGLAR, General Agent Freight and Pas>en- 
ger Departments. 

N. HAIGHT, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

E. R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

E. A. WILLIAMS, City Freight and Passenger Agt. 
Salt Lake City, Utah -20i Main Street. 

D. E. BURLEY\ General Agent. 

1). S. TAGtiART, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

W'. J. RIDD, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

L. .J. KEYES. City Ticket A-cent. 

W. S. EVAXS. City Passenger Agent. 
San Francisco, Cal.— l Montgomery Street. 

D. W. HITCHCOCK, General Agent, Passenger De- 
partment 

C. E. BROWX, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
W. R. VICE. Pacific Coast Passenger Agent. 

J. F. FUGAZI, Immigrant Agt., 5 Montgomery Ave. 
Seattle, Wash.— ITO Second street. 

A. ('. >iAR'ITN, (ieneral Agent. 
Sioux City, Iowa. .503 Fourth Street. 

D. M. COLLINS, General Agent. 

GEO. F:. ABBOTT, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
H. M. P.IRDSALL, Citv Ticket Agent. 
GEO. LEDY'ARD. Citv Pas.senger Agent . 
GEO. F. WHEELOCK. Ticket Agent, Union Depot. 
Spokane, Wash.— Cor. Riverside and Wasliing- 
ton Streets. 
PERRY' (IRIFFIN, Passenger and Ticket Agent. 

Tacoma. Wash.— !103 Pacific Avenue. 

E. E. F:LLIS, General Agent. 

Trinidad. Colo. 

.1. F. I.INTHURST, Ti(^ket Agent^ 

Victoria, B. C— 100 (iovernment street. 
R. HALL, Ticket Agent. 



E. L. LOMAX, 

General Passenger and Ticket Agent. 



J. N. BROWN, 

ACTING ASST. GEN'L PASS'R AND TKT. AGT. 



OMAHA, NEB. 



A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake. 




B' 



I E FORE proceeding with a short narration of 
the sights and incidents of an extended oruise 
on Utah's Inland Sea, it will perhaps, be well to 
first state briefly the purpose which led the writer 
to take such an exceptional degree of interest in 
that comparatively unknown body of water, and 
then, for the better understanding of the descrip- 
tive parts, give an outline sketch of the sea itself. 
I call the body of water a sea, although it is set 
down on the map of L^tah as a lake, not only from the fact it is often so called, 
but because its every characteristic makes more suitable the former name. 
The several cruises which were made, and which formed a complete circuit 
of the sea, were undertaken partly for pleasure and partly for the purpose of 
exploration, and the writer accompanied them through a desire to make a set 
of sketches— the islands and shores, with their attendant phenomena of water 
and sky. This design had been suggested by a perusal of Captain Stansbury's 
book, and from- watching the phases of storm and sunshine, as seen from the 
southern mainland and one of the islands already visited. *Stansbury told 
how much of interest might be seen on a cruise that would comprehend the 
entire sea ; for despite the forbidding nature of its low shores, made ugly 
by slime and alkali, there are other, less seen portions, either grand or novel, 
where the clear green water washes on beaches of sand or pebbles, or at the 
feet of gigantic cliffs. In display of color also, the place is remarkable, the 



* Captain Stansbury made the first survey of the'Creat Salt Lake in 1849-50. Stansbury Island was 
named after him; Gunnison Island after Lieutenant Gunni.son in his command. Fremont's visit to the 
island now bearing his name was in 1843 ; he called it, at the time. Disappointment Island. The first 
mention of the lake was made bv Baron La Hontan in 16S9. A Mr. :Miller, of the Jacob Astor party, 
stood bv its shore in 1S20, and Mr. John Bedyear in 1S25. Members of Captain Bonneville's expedition 
looked upon the scene from near the mouth of Ogden River in 1833. Bonneville himself gave a rather 
fanciful description of the lake, as seen from a mountain-side (as told in In-ing), though it is not certain 
if he was ever an eye-witness of the scene himself. His name has been given to a great fossil lake o'^he 
Quaternarj- period, whose shore-line may now be seen throughout the neighboring valleys, and of which 
the present Great Salt Lake is but the bitter fragment. 

(7) 



A GLIMl'SE OF GREAT SALT LAKE. 9 

sky and water being strikingly beautiful, tender, vivid, even gorgeous at times, 
beyond what can be seen elsewhere, save in the tropic zone. 

Glancing at the accompanying map, we find that this elevated basin of 
water, lake, or sea, as we may hereafter choose to call it, is somewhat peculiar 
in outline, resembling slightly a human hand, the fingers pressed together and 
pointing north-northwest. The portion of water forming the thumb is known 
as Bear River Bay, and the dividing mountains, between thumb and fingers 
as Promontory Range. In the palm of the hand are four large islands — Ante- 
lope, Stansbury, Carrington, and l''remont. Away to the north are three that 
are smaller — Strong's Knob, Gunnison, and Dolphin. Along the eastern shore 
are the Wahsatch Mountains ; on the south and west, the Oquirrh, the Ter- 
race, and other portions of the Desert Range. Seven streams empty their 
waters into its briny depths, and yet its saline density remains ever the same. 
The largest of the streams are the Jordan, the Weber, and the Bear ; the two 
latter entering on the northeast, their source being away to the eastward among 
the Uintah Mountains. The first enters on the southeast, coming from a large, 
fresh-water lake, about thirty miles to the south, and which is fed by the tor- 
rents pouring down from the Wahsatch. The surface of this strange briny sea 
has an annual rise and fall of from fifteen to eighteen inches, being highest 
about the middle of June and lowest toward the end of November. This vari- 
ation in rise and fall is due to the wetness and dryness of the seasons, as would 
of course be imagined. The mouths of the various streams form extensive 
marshes, entering as they all do where the shores are low. They are the haunt 
of the usual marsh birds : coots, divers, snipe, and wild duck ; besides larger 
birds, as geese, herons, pelicans, and occasionally a wild swan. 

It was on June 14 that our yacht was ready to sail. Our party of six was 
under the guidance of a most efificient captain — one who. in all probability, is 
more familiar than any other man with the moods of the inland sea. He was 
also owner of the boat, whose coi]struction he had superintended ; and as it 
has been demonstrated to be an excellent craft to buffet with those heavy 
waves, some interest may attach to its special build. In dimensions it is 
twenty-one feet over all, ten feet beam. The hull, or rather hulls, for although 
the boat is classed as a yacht, it is partly of a catamaran build, are constructed 
so as to offer the least possible resistance to the dense water, while at the same 
time keeping her perfectly free from the danger of upsetting. In canvas it 
carries a main and a jib, a gaff, and a jib-topsail ; is managed by a double 
rudder, and in every detail the peculiar exigencies to be met have been well 
considered. 

At starting it was proposed to keep a log ; a record of our cruise, the 
shifting of winds, the varying of our course, with all the /multiplicity of inci- 
dents that befall the mariner. But after the first thirty hours the idea was 
abandoned. Save for the few jottings from which this account is penned, we 



A GLIMPSE OF GKliAT SALT LAKE. II 

let winds and waves go as they list, without a thought beyond the pleasure or 
immediate duty of the hour. Our course for those first thirty hours was up 
the eastern shore of Antelope Island, in point of scenery the least attractive of 
the entire circuit, though during our progress we were treated to a series of 
striking effects in the forming and breaking of sudden storms. The island on 
its eastern side has no bold features, its tall, dark hills sloping down to the 
water's edge in common-place, rounded forms, or with broad, fiat, sage-cov- 
,ered spaces between their feet and the shore. Commencing with our depart- 
ure from Garfield Beach, the noted resort on the southern shore, 1 will con- 
dense that part of our cruise into a couple of paragraphs: 

"Cast off from the pier at Garfield, hoisted sail, and bore in the direction 
of Black Rock. Lake quiet, weather sultry. Along the eastern horizon yel- 
low-headed cumuli; overhead, ragged drift. To windward, southwest, a por- 
tentous heap of cloud, riven, at times, by lightning. Touched at the sand 
dunes near Saltair, and then .steered our course for Antelope Island. At twi- 
light a sudden squall from the south, coming down from the Oquirrh summits, 
and throwing up waves choppy and disagreeable. Sky cleared of clouds at 
lo P.M., giving a splendid moonlight run to Island Farm, on the eastern shore 
of Antelope. 

" Sunrise of the next day, calm and bright. Sails set at 9 a. m., to make 
but slow progress, with winds light and variable, alternated with dead calms. 
Lake very blue all day, with soft, white clouds peeping up all day around the 
horizon. Off Ragged Point at 6 p. m., and soon after a strange phenomenon 
observed. From distant headlands to westward came floating a magic fleet. 
It looked as if the bowlders of the shore had started out lakeward, or more 
properly, as if they had been changed into huge, white snowballs, and then 
sent rolling onward across the waters. As they approached more near, we 
found them to be great globes of foam, formed by the beating of briny waves 
among the rocks, and then cast adrift by a shifting wind. At sunset a strong 
gale commenced to blow, issuing from the north-northwest, and increasing 
each moment in force and power. Unable to beat against it, we cast anchor 
in the nearest bay, one sheltered somewhat on the west, but unfortunately open 
to the north. At twilight a wild and thrilling spectacle. The wind had grown 
stronger, the waves higher. In almost ocean size they came hurrying from 
windward, tossing their white manes, sweeping past us in thick-set ranks, to 
burst on the shore in a deluge of foam. Straining at its cable, our yacht stag- 
gered with each l)low of the heavy water; while from mast and rigging came 
an answering whistle to the blast. Across the lake, to the north and north- 
west, a strange crystalline light illumined the air. To the west, a lurid glare 
of color streamed upward on the wind-torn clouds, finding an echo on the far- 
off Weber Cliffs. To the east, the sky was all but cloudless ; the lake a cold, 
sheeny green : and across its whirling surface lay a .shivering trail of pallid 




< £ 



A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKE. I3 

gray, pointing wiierc tlie moon, dim and pale, the ghost of a dead world, lifted 
above the distant Wahsatch peaks, and stared at the acrid waters of a dead 
sea. At II p. ^L, the winds abating, the waves, sinking, the sky clearing. All 
quiet on board our yacht." 

A beautiful sight accompanied the following dawn. It was Venus as 
morning star, making the east lovely with her clear white light. Not a speck 
or thread of cloud was in the sky from which she smiled upon us. So glassy 
calm lay the waters, it seemed scarcely possible they had raged so fiercely the 
night before ; and so clear they were, we could see the bowlders on the lake- 
bed full thirty feet below. 

Breakfast over, and our anchor raised, we made an unpleasant discovery. 
The strain imposed upon it had broken the ring; one of the rudders, also, had 
been torn from its lower fastening; so these discoveries, combined with the 
fact that we had neglected to bring extra fittings, made a retrograde move- 
ment necessary. We managed to run across to the nearest point on the eastern 
shore, and one of our party was detailed to se'ek the necessary articles at the 
nearest village. As this was some distance away, we lay at rest, waiting his 
return, until the middle of the afternoon. 

The dreariness of the shore, where we lay at anchor, was oppressive to see. 
It was a low, clay bank, of a grayish red, and dotted with grease-wood bushes 
of stunted growth. Very little life disturbed its solitude. Two or three 
querulous snipe ran along the margin; a couple of brown divers sported on the 
near water; and once or twice a string of broad-winged pelicans sailed over- 
head. In the brooding mid-day calms, such pieces of the low shore become 
repellent; nor does the limitless scope of horizon serve to dispel the feeling of 
dejection they inspire. The mind is then as much weighed down by the sense 
of infinity in the distant mountain chains as by the sterility of the nearer shore. 
There in our sight stretched out a hundred and fifty miles of the Wahsatch 
Range; Oquirrh, with their endless recurrence of peak and gorge — thesi.xteen 
miles of Antelope occupying but a fragment on the western horizon; the pre- 
cipitous sides of Stansbury, with vista after vista of the Desert Range, leading 
the eye around to Fremont and Promontory; and these latter, lengthening out 
by peak and slope, and peak again, directing the sight to a far-off cluster 
of vapor-Mue peaks, where the Raft River Mountains girtled the northern 
view. 

In recording his impressions of the lake, Captain Stansbury truly defines 
the sensations produced by this view. ''Although so near a body of the saltest 
water,"hefelt none of that "invigorating freshness which is always experienced 
in the vicinity of the ocean." "The bleak and barren shores," he goes on to 
say, "without a single tree to relieve the eye, presented a scene so different 
from what I had pictured in my mind of this far-famed spot, that my disap- 
pointment was extreme." 



ww^ 




A GLIMPS1-: OF t;RP:AT SALT LAKE. 



15 



As the afternoon advanced the air grew sultry. The great l)riny surface 
before us began to gleam with intolerable brilliance, outstretching like a vast 
mirror of polished steel, with [^the sun's path across it, like that same steel at 
a molten heat. Not a breeze moving, we lifted the main sail for shade, and 
wearily waited our messmate's coming. Soon the western horizon melted away 
in a golden haze; islands and promontories floated in air; the distant mountain 
chains parted asunder, to become groups of peaked islands, or stretch across 
the sky like the arches of wondrous bridges. So unreal it became at last, so 
like a phantasmagoria, that substance and shadow v^-ere undistinguishable. In 
plainer words, all the strange illusions attending a mirage on the inland sea 
were witnessed to perfection that summer day. 

It was just as the sun had dipped, that the prow of our yacht grated on the 
sands of Fremont Island. A couple of cabins stood on the shore, not a hun- 
dred yards away from our landing, and long ere we touched we had noticed a 
cloud of dust decending from the hill-tops toward them. This the glass made 
out to be caused by a single horseman, spurring along at a break-neck speed. 
From the shore we were greeted with a loud ahoy! to which we responded with 
a hearty cheer. Two noble deer-hounds and a noisy Scotch terrier came leaping 
to meet us; a solitary life at the lonely place had made them more gentle than 
fierce. 

We found the island to have si.\ inhabitants. The herdsman we had seen, 
the owner of the cabins, his wife, their two children, and a household servant. 
Cultivated plots surrounded the cabin, while a flock of sheep grazed on a 
neighboring hill-side. The water of the place is supplied bv a flowing well, 
though this was obtained until recently from a natural spring near by. 

Mutual greetings exchanged, we were naturally anxious to view the more 
important sights of the place. One of these is the spring just mentioned, 
and a remarkable pebble beach. The latter is a mile or more up shore, and 
is known by the name of Mosaic. Its bright, polished pebbles are of various 
colors, with a deep golden yellow conspicuous. Some are of a purple black, 
and others of a marble whiteness. Beside this beach there is a little alcove, 
where the pebbles are equally well polished, some of a pale, slaty gray, inter- 
mingled with others of a green and deep red hue. 

While going along the trail, our captain told of a pitiable sight he had wit- 
nessed on a former visit. This had been about ten years before, when the lake 
was unusually high. With a single companion, he had crossed over to the island, 
and both men were engaged in searching for the spring, when a loud and con- 
tinuous bleating directed their steps to the place. Arriving at the edge of an 
overhanging cliff, this sorry sight met their gaze. There on the beach stood, 
perhaps, a hundred sheep, huddled together, and looking appealingly at the 
spot where the spring had formerly been. In the agony of thirst they pawed 
furiouslv the shingle, fresh victims continuallv addin"' to the number of dead 



A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKK. I7 

already lying on the shore. With throats parched and burning, the two men 
could well sympathize with the tortured animals. Seeing that their own quest 
for water was fruitless, they hurried away to their boat, and sped to the nearest 
water they knew, that of a spring near Promontory.* 

With the words of this story fresh in our ears, we arrived at the spring, 
from whence we crossed ever to the alcove on the opposite shore. Shadows 
of twilight hung over the place. Tints of ravishing beauty were on sky and 
water. Primrose yellow filled the lower heavens, changing imperceptibly into 
vaguest green, with violet at the zenith. Dim along the horizon, chains of 
mountains formed bands of pearly rose, rose gray, and ashes of rose. In the 
lake deep amber took the place of the primrose; and wherever a breeze ruffled 
slightly its otherwise quiet surface, was reflected the violet hue, edged with 
the paly green. 

Well pleased with the events of our third day out, we returned to the cab- 
ins. Our host read aloud some passages from Fremont's book, those narrat- 
ing his visit to the Disappointment Island, as he called it, in company with 
Kit Carson, in 1843. "How little has it changed," said our host, "from its 
s;)litary condition at the time, save for these two little cabins, these plots of 
cultivated ground, and my one small flock of hardy sheep." f 

Later on all hands betook themselves again to the beach, there to enjoy 
the serenity of the summer night. Over the Wahsatch, above the gap formed 
by the Weber River, the moon had risen, shedding a flood of silvery radiance 
across the waters. The novelty of our situation, the loneliness of the time, 
gave a zest to the most commonplace story or anecdote, and, well, I was going 
to write how heartfelt sounded the music, but we all know that ; the charm of 
outdoor music is everywhere the same, one of the chief pleasures of being 
under the open sky, whether it be on spreading plain, under the shadow of 
granite hills, or, as with us, by the shore of a briny sea. Hail Columbia ! Ye 
Banks and Braes o' Bonnie Doon. All in the Bay of Biscay, O ! So we 
joined our voices in song after song, national, gay or pathetic, as the moment 
willed, and all the while the flood of moonlight outlined in umber the mast, 

* Perhaps the above paragraph needs some explanation. The men had not visited the island 
before, and which was then uninhabited. The place bears an abundance of rich, sweet grass, and the 
sheep had been left there for winter pasturage. The unusual rise in the lake was certainly unlocked 
for. Besides this annual rise and fall, there has been of late years a permanent rise in its surface, 
enough to form the strait between Strong's Knob and the terminal rock of the Desert Range, and also to 
cover over several low-lying reefs and islands, that are now a source of considerable danger. 

+ In a life passed so much in isolation, one becomes intimately acquainted with the habits of the 
lower creatures around them. There are but few creatures native to the island, but with these few o\ir 
host had become thoroughly in sympathy. A large species of lizard is quite numerous, and one of these 
became so tame as to be a daily playmate with the children. Several old ravens make the island summit 
their home. Their ominous croak may be heard at almost any lime in vicinity of the flock. Forever 
they are on the lookout for some stray lamb or sheep that may have fallen among the cliffs. ' For that 
reason they have been condemned to death, but execution of the sentence is continually deferred. 

2 



A GLlMI'Si: OF GkKAT SAi/1 LAKE. I9 

the hull, the rigging, of our trusty yacht, and danced with the waves among 
the branches of a stranded old cedar as the summer night wore away. 

With the ne.xt few paragraphs is described the last twenty-four hours of our 
stay on the eastern shores. They were among the most fruitful of our entire 
circuit. The scenery on the west side or Antelope astonished us ; we did not 
expect to see anything like it. The day, too, was in our favor, showing the 
peculiar atmospheric effects in a wonderful degree. Si.x years before 1 had 
ridden along part of the same piece of shore, but in the month of August. 
Then the rocks and bushes were covered thick with a veil of cobwebs, the big, 
fat spiders making the beach a place to be avoided. To appreciate this 
scenery one should see it from a boat's deck, and in the months of early 
summer or autumn. One thing we would liked to have seen that day was the 
flash of a rival sail. From end to end of the island not a sign of human life 
had met our sight. An old cabin (once inhabited by salt gatherers), tumbling 
to pieces, its open door staring blankly at us, rather augmented than lessened 
the solitude of the place. With neither sail on the water, nor life on the land, 
we would easily have thought ourselves the first to cruise along its deserted 
shores. 

Again upon the waters, our interest centered in watching the shifting forms 
of mountains and Islands. At our back (our course was now southeast) a 
rounded mass of rock appeared to float on the water. This our guide pro- 
nounced as Strong's Knob, once a headland, now an island. Beyond this:, 
point and the end of Fremont, the eye traveled over an immeasurable stretch 
of water toward a range of mountains, spectral with extreme distance ; the 
water was the northwest portion of the lake, and the mountains the barrier line 
in that direction of the ancient Bonneville.* 

Noon found us on the coast of Antelope, becalmed in White Rock Bay. 
The hurrying rattle of the waves along the boat's side had changed to a lazy 
swash, finally ending in silence. Somnolence brooded over land and main ; 
the motionless water lay unsullied; not even a troublesome gnat was aboard 
from the shore. Here was a chance for unparalleled bathing. Soon four mar- 
iners were sporting like Tritons in liquid green, whilst seated on deck, two 
timid ones. Satyr-like, looked wistfully on. f 

From the upper reach, where we lay becalmed, the rock which has named 
the bay, appeared as if incrusted with glittering salt, but it is merely the white- 



* Tlie outlet to this vast ancient body of water has been shown, by Professor Gilbert to have been at 
a place now called Red Rock Pass, a deep defile cut through the mountains referred to The lines 
formed by the old water levels along the mountain sides affect the character of every scene But few 
sketches were made on our cruise in which their strange individuality did not occur. 

t Bathing in the lake is one of the most novel of sensations. The dense water has a tendency to float 
the limbs to the surface, so that one can sustain themselves in a recumbent position for an indefinite 
length of tune, that is, when the water is anywise calm. It is hard work to make headway in swimming 
against even the smallest waves. 



22 A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKE. 

ness of the rock itself. Its positio'n in the center of the bay, together with the 
dark tones of the surrounding hjUs, makes it a very conspicuous object. 

At a later hour, as we drifted near, with a few cat's-paws of wind, we noticed 
the suspicious actions of several gulls. Wheeling overhead, they appeared in 
deep distress. " See I " said one of our crew, "the gulls are nesting on yonder 
rock, and the herons are keeping sentinel." A glance revealed, as he said, 
the tall, blue-coated herons, and a moment later a whole troop of gulls dropped 
from the rock and came screaming towards us. The noise was deafening, as 
valiantly they dashed round our masthead. In this they offered a striking 
contrast to the cowardly herons. With a slow beat of wing the latter had flown 
shoreward, and then mounted far into the bright blue sky. When we grappled 
the rock, the rage of the gulls was furious ; we could hardly keep them from 
off our faces. At last, finding assaults in vain, they suddenly deserted their 
home in a body, settled on the water near by, where, as from a fallen white 
cloud, sounded their continuous screaming and calling. 

The afternoon was well advanced when we sailed down past a monster cliff 
known as the Elephant's Head. It forms the terminal point of the Monument 
Ridge, as the highest elevation of the island is called. Hanging over the 
pale green water, huge coils of a shining, whitish rock, twisted in among its 
contorted gray strata, this iron-gray cliff is pictorially superb. After that came 
bay after bay,. with ragged points, with needle spires, stacks, cubes, mounds, 
old molars of rock, fantastic forms innumerable. Close we ran our boat along 
this shore, beneath hills covered with parched russet foliage, beneath 
mountains of fire-burnt rock, from which the stentorian voice of our mate 
awoke a series of witch-like echoes. 

While the scenery to landward had kept our attention, there was appearing 
in the west on effect of light and color to be seen nowhere else on the American 
continent. The water was green, yet such an indescribable green, beneath that 
blazing sun, and playing all over its surface were flame-like wavelets of pale 
blue. Distant mountains were violet and rose, the furthest eaten away with 
the white burning light of mirage. At sunset we witnessed oneof those peerless 
displays of color for which the sea is famous. Called forth by the heat of the 
■day, a pile of cloud had gathered around the southwestern horizon, and were 
moved between our course and the sun. Kind reader, this is not a plan, a 
device to give a grand scenic finale to our last day out. Long will we remem- 
ber the resplendent spectacle I Girding the far horizon, the western mountains 
appeared like the outermost land of earth, resting on a sea of gold. When the 
sun touched the verge, it was as though we looked into a vast furnace of living 
flame. (Hats off , messmates ! Hats off ! Honor to the mighty orb, the sustainer 
of heat and light, in whose beams the joys, the sorrows of life, are transmitted 
from age to age, and in whose withdrawal would be the eternal apathy of 
death.) 



24 A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKE. 

It was quite dusk when we reached the southern end of Antelope Island,, 
and a stronger breeze than we had enjoyed at any time of the day began to 
speed us on. Should we take advantage of it and have a glorious night sail ? 
All were agreed to that. The prow of our boat, pointing to Garfield Beach,. 
was changed to Lakeside, a village on the eastern shore. Daylight, however, 
found us once more becalmed several miles from our goal. With whiffs of wind 
we crept nearer and nearer. From the pastures where cattle were browsing, 
we heard the flute-notes of the meadow larks. Beautiful appeared the drooping 
foliage in the orchards of the village, with the peeping gables above. To our 
sharpened appetite the languid coils of smoke, issuing from the chimneys, told 
a pleasant tale. We had just began to grow impatient of delay, to cast longing 
glances shoreward, when a stiff breeze suddenly made taut our idle sails. Some- 
one sprang to the tiller, the water commenced to feather gently from the bows, 
and then form a curling line in our wake.' It required but a short period of 
such lively sailing to place us alongside of a rickety old pier, and bring our 
initial cruise to a most agreeable end. 

Taking all things into consideration, the lesser portion of our circuit of tlie 
Great Salt Lake had certainly been a decided success. We had viewed the 
many strange sights and places under the most favorable circumstances. We 
looked forward anxiously for its second part, which was to take us out across 
the main body of the lake, and to those islands and shores but rarely visited by 
man. Gunnison Island, the farthest point we expected to touch, occupied a 
place in my mind as a realization of perfect solitude ; in summer the nesting- 
place of countless birds, and in winter lying ghostly white, in its shroud of 
snow, amid the blackness of unfreezing waters. 

We arrived at the beach when there was promise of dirty weather. The 
barometer had been steadily falling, and there was that sultry hush in the air 
that tells of coming storm. We took no care, however, thinking it no cause 
for delay ; we expected to sail away from what might prove merely a local 
disturbance, and to cast anchor where another wind current prevailed. We 
respected, though, even if we did not fear just then, the northwest gales. It 
was in deference to these we had planned the course of the present cruise. In 
working northward along the base of Stansbury Island, we would be shielded 
somewhat from meeting with adverse seas, and also escape beating against them 
in crossing from Gunnison to Promontory, over a part of the lake that is 
especially subject to heavy blows. 

Without dwelling upon the incidents of the opening hours, in which we 
passed the mouth of Tuilla Valley, and reached the island (Stansbury), I shall 
begin to relate from the morning of the second day. All signs of the storm 
had disappeared, the sunrise bringing with it a mildly blowing wind from the 
south. With mainsail and foresail set wing to wing (an oar converted into a 
spinnacher boom) we moved slowly along ; so slowly indeed, that our mate 



26 A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKE. 

swam ashore to examine a stranded boat lying high and dry on the rocks. 
From the great holes broken in its side, he concluded it to have been cast there 
by some winter storm, a supposition borne out by its being just on the edge pf 
the highest surf line. 

Once away from the island, there was an overpowering sense of solitude in 
the waste of waters round. A golden-gray sunset closed in the peaceful day, 
followed by the earliest stars. Such a meal as we enjoyed out here, under the 
twilight sky ! Was there an epicure in all the land brought such an appetite to 
his supper as we ? While we glided along, gently, as if wafted through the air, 
a great blue heron came from a lonely rock near by, to sail over our boat with 
outstretched pinions. When he had gone, a shout turned all eyes to the north- 
ward : " Gunnison Island, ahoy!" a purple speck no larger than a lad's top 
peeping above the horizon rim. 

The discovery just narrated was made at the beginning of a splendid sail. 
The wind had been momentarily growing less in our vicinity, though there was 
a sparkler coming down from the head of the lake — such a one as tossed up 
the white-caps in a hurry. Sometimes we doubted if the dark tiny speck could 
be Gunnison Island or no, so small it appeared amid the area of waves. Once 
we lost sight of it altogether, yet it reappeared, the expiration of a few hours 
showing it to be the highest peak of the island. 

I said at the beginning of a splendid sail : Can we ever forget those hours 
of joyful life between the evening and morning twilight ? Held close to the 
wind, veering round to the west, we sped on at a rate that sent the water reel- 
ing in our wake with the swiftness of a mountain torrent. Our boat was all 
aqueous, and to hold the tiller was like keeping in check an impetuous steed. 
Had our cruise ended that night, still it would have been worth more than a 
year of every-day life. How like a dream it was to be out there on the face 
of that mysterious sea ! How like a dream to be moving in the deep mid- 
night toward the shadows of its unknown shores ! Every sight and every 
sound had in it something of wonder or beauty. There hung Venus, our 
beneficent star. All of the islands had long disappeared, though the small 
lonely rock, the home of the heron, was visible again for a moment, as, fiery 
and big, the moon rose like a midnight sun from the waters. A glorious, 
never-to-be-forgotten night ; all the world and its troubles seeming as far away 
as though we had voyaged to another planet across the waves of a nebulous 
sea ! 

"Midnight's sun, all blood-red bright, 
Far-off isles o'er-bended ; 
It was not da5', it was not night. 
Between them 'twas suspended." 

From the edge of Strong's Knob, where we landed next morning, can be 
seen a most characteristic view of the western shore. The sketch was made as 
we skirted along the beach of a little bay, on the way to climb the highest 



28 A GLIMPSE OK GREAT SALT LAKE. 

eminence of the island. It is looking diagonally across the Davis Strait toward 
the mouth of the American Desert. Desolation brooded over the original 
scene, and yet there was mingled with its peculiarities a weird sort of witch- 
like beauty, strange to behold. The fantastic rocks jutting out from the land 
may be duplicated on many a sea-shore, but not the blended pallor and purity 
of color which marked the place. Not the slightest humidity arose from the 
water, only that wavy heat-haze that made the distance float in a dreamy 
mirage. 

From the top of the peak, a view, oppressive from its very immensity, greeted 
the sight. Very little wind was moving, so in the shallows the lake lay quiet, 
among the numerous sand-bars of the strait, more like green, translucent ice, 
than water. From the cro-nest, erected by Stansbury, the outlook was wild. 
Far and away to the west, stretched the whiteness of the awful desert. Vast- 
ness and strangeness were the leading features. Yet rather than be slaves to 
these, we sought refuge in examining the nearer shores of the Knob. One of 
its projecting arms seemed designed by nature to show the principles of the 
picturesque. Its irregular outline included five miniature bays, each with its 
overhanging rocks, and its beach of pure white sand. These bays are so situ- 
ated as to give shelter from the wind, blow from what quarter it may. 

In a limited area, its entire shore-line can not exceed three miles. Gunnison 
Island, our Ultima Thule, exhibits as many diversified forms as can be found 
on a rough sea-coast. It has beetling cliffs, sandy beaches, walls and pyramids 
of rock, and stacks pinnacled and grottoed, and inhabited by crowds of scream- 
ing sea-fowl. In some respects it may be likened to an outlying fragment of 
" sea-beat Hebrides ;" but on a summer day, with the fervid heat pouring down 
on the lava rocks, with its lizards darting across the burning sands, the green 
and blue water, lying glassy calm, and on the horizon, gleams of snow-crested 
peaks, it more closely resembles some lonely rock of the Azores. Well could 
we ask, Where could we find another such lake, with another such island, 
where, in the noon of a summer day, we might fancy ourselves by the shore of 
some southern sea, and yet be standing on a spot that is howled across by the 
fiercest of winter storms. 

No sooner had we leaped on its shore, than our first impulse was to cross 
a neck of land over which a snow-white gull had risen with clamor. Such a 
shout as we gave, and such an answering scream from the throats of myriad- 
birds ! Not in our circumnavigation of the lake had we looked upon another 
scene half as picturesque as that, nor one whose sombre features were en- 
livened with such a multitute of noisy life. Every hour of our stay at this 
island was filled with the echoes of a ceaseless din. When in our ramblings 
from bay to bay we happened to pass through the colonies, the fury of this- 
tumult arose to its greatest height. 

For an hour we thought of nothing but watching their ways. Besides the" 



30 A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKE. 

hundreds of thousands of clamorous gulls, there was rank behind rank of the 
more stolid pelicans. It is a pity to spoil the pleasing impression made by a 
first sight of these birds by a subsequent closer acquaintance. Their effect in 
the sea-scape is splendid. Along the marge of the shore they stand wing to 
wing, motionless as well-drilled soldiers. No bird could be more dignified in 
slow-measured flight ; while afloat on the water they are graceful as swans. 

The sketch for the cliffs at Promontory was made when the lake was placid, 
our yatch laying in the shadow of the cliffs, waiting for a favoring breeze. 
One of the peculiarites of the lake is the suddenness with which it can become 
calm after running high. That very morning we had a highly e.xciting time 
in crossing to the Point from Gunnison Island. As that run gives a good idea 
of what it is, at times, to sail on the inland sea, I write it in full. 

At an early hour we quitted the island. Land and water were vaguely de- 
fined in a struggle between moonlight and dawn. The mainsail of our yacht 
was double-reefed, for we had some misgivings of the weather outside ; the wind 
had been dead to the north, and blowing hard since dark. On one side of the 
cliffs the water was calm, but whenever we awoke in the night we could hear 
the crash of the waves in the opposite bay, and the cry of the troubled gulls, as 
they broke on the beach, where their young were nested. 

Half a mile from the shore and me began to catch the breeze; not very 
boisterous at first, but enough to make the island drop rapidly astern, so that in 
less than an hour it looked farther away than Strong's Knob to the south, its 
outline exceedingly grand. 

By that time, however, there was very little chance for admiring the scene 
winds and waves had increased, until the latter would have tossed a good-sized 
ship. The point we wished to make lay somewhat south of east, so our course 
lay nearly along the trough of the sea; but in order to quarter the waves, we 
had to direct our course more northerly, to a point some miles up shore. With 
the waves so high, with the winds increasing, anxious faces might have been 
seen on board our boat; not but that we expected to weather it through, but 
when it taxed the strength of two hardy men to manage the tiller of such a 
tiny craft; aft'airs were getting decidedly critical. Perhaps those who were 
landsmen overestimated the danger, but stil^I believe that every man on board 
devoutly wished himself on shore; not in any craven way; perish the thought! 
not to have evaded the danger then and there, and thus have missed its lesson, 
but, wishing rather, that we had fought it successfully through. All men, save 
born cowards, must know of the thrill, the secret sense of exultation, engen- 
dered by looking a danger full in the face; to fully realize its presence, yet not 
turn aside. To those who pass their life in continual security must sometimes 
come a longing., the knowledge of a sense not satisfied. In the present case- 
it might be argued there was no way of escape; true, but under similar circum-- 



32 A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKE. 

Stances no one need to expect to make a circuit of the Great Salt Lake without 
incurring the same kind of risks. 

By sunrise the blow had come to its hardest. The waves had a spiteful, 
vicious look, with the foam torn fiercely from off their crests. We had a trying 
moment as we dropped the mainsail, a towering wave striking the boat a blow 
that surrounded it for a moment in hissing foam; the next we were high on a 
crest, the foresail holding us steadily enough to the wind. 

That was the turning point; the waves grew no higher; we fancied they 
were growing less. The sight was magnificent, as the sun, lifting above a low 
bank of clouds, streamed on the turbulent sea. Struck by the level rays of 
light, how old the mountains appeared; centuries of age seemed suddenly 
heaped on their heads. Toward the sun how beautiful it was I The high waves 
pierced through by the light, so that they came forward like craggy walls of 
emerald below, and topaz above. It realized Byron's 

"The yellow beam he throws 
Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows." 

But those lines were not meant for such a wild, tumultuous onsweeping of 
water such as we looked upon. 

In another hour we had reached comparative calm. Sheltered by the tall 
Promontory hills, the lake only acknowledged the past blow by running in 
short, jerky swells, the most trying to landsmen of all motions of water. 

On the afternoon of the same day we entered the bay at Fremont Island. 
We skimmed across nearly to its south horn, and then made landing on a shjrp 
tack. Gilert, one of the hounds, manifested the greatest pleasure at our arrival 
and a right cordial reception we again received from our island friends. The 
breeze that brought us gallantly in was but a temporary one; since the blow, a 
few such had been moving here and there on the lake, making dark ripple 
patches, like the shadows of passing clouds. While coming through the strait 
between the Island and Promontory we made our stop at the latter. The scene 
was so very striking that we lay to, for the purpose of sketching. A bluff of 
light-colored sandstone jutted out boldly over the water, with lower projections 
of slate. The mountains across the lake showed beautifully, especially looking 
toward Stansbury Island, whose two high domes stood darkly shadowed against 
the sharp, dim snow-peaks of Tuilla Range. Over their summits was a towering 
cumulus, lovely in form and color. Seen near by, it was probably by a dazzling 
whiteness on its illuminated parts, with a suggestion of thunder in the lurid 
shadows, but at the distance we viewed, it showed on the sky in the most 
exquisite aerial tones. 

With the foregoing our descriptions are ended ; but it may not be out of 
place to give here a few remarks on the pleasures and dangers attending a 
cruise on the inland sea. It bears the unenviable reputation of being a most 
dangerous sheet of water, and although there is no doubt but that the reputa- 



34 A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKE. 

tion is well merited, there are no reasons why it should not also be a source of 
much pleasure. For carelessness, for bravado, there is certainly no room 
when traversing its saline waters. The craft employed should be a stout one, 
fit to meet the strain of heavy seas, for in a sail of any length one is most 
likely to be met with. It is almost incredible to those whose experience has 
been confined to fresh water lakes to realize the force with which the heavy 
waves can strike, and yet in spite of its density, the water has a peculiar 
aptitude for transmitting motion ; in a short time the waves rise to a trying 
height, though, as stated before, they fall as quickly on the cessation of a 
blow. 

With a strong northwester, or 'easter, it is better not to venture forth at 
all. Our experience in running from the Gunnison to Promontory contained 
all the elements of danger the average boatman cares to face, and certainly as 
much as the average landsman cares to s. are. The superiority of a catamaran 
over the ordinary boat was then fully demonstrated. Although so light, our 
yacht was quite equal to the strain imposed upon her. This strain was all the 
greater through the shallowness of the water. The wave-crests were terribly 
close together ; no such valleys between them as in deep, open water. The 
suddenness with which we rose first on a crest, then sank in a vale, was one of 
the unpleasant features. 

Another thing to be avoided is an involuntary immersion in the lake. A 
fall overboard in rough weather simply means death. Nor is this unlikely to 
happen when we consider the jerkiness of a little craft among such waves. It 
is not a question of endurance in swimming ; a very few mouthfuls of the 
choking fluid puts an end to all that. Such an accident occurred to one of an 
exploring party, but in really moderate weather. Even then the poor fellow 
that met with the mishap was unfit for duty for the next forty-eight hours. 

In making a cruise to the islands occupying the northwest part of the 
lake, care must be taken to carry a plentiful supply of water. Too much fore- 
thought in this, respect is better than the slightest negligence, for not a drop of 
water trickles forth on either island, or along a hundred miles of coast. 
Shipwreck there would be attended by the ugliest possibilities. 

But these are the very darkest sides of certain dangers that may be en- 
countered, and need deter no one from enjoying a sail on this mountain- 
locked sea. Of the pleasures attendant upon such a sail, I have endeavored to 
give a true statement in the preceding pages. These, it has been shown, are 
of no mean order. A vast body of water, on which one may float day after 
day, without twice looking on the same shores, certainly offers great attraction 
in the way of boating. When, added to this, we consider the splendor of the 
effects, the attraction must be conceded to be noteworthy in many ways. 
Other trips were made by our party later than those described, but as they 
were, for the most part, over port'ous of our previous cruise, they will be 




I 



36 A GLIMPSE OF GREAT SALT LAKE, 

omitted. One was in the month of September, between two autumn storms. 
The lake was quiet, the winds were soft. Dim, through ambient haze, the 
surrounding mountains loomed up ; along the summits, newly-fallen snow ; 
upon their feet, brilliant dashes of color, where the fingers of the frost had 
touched. 

In the accompanying diagrams I have placed together four notes of mirage 
effect: three from the water, and one from the land. Figure one (i) is a bit 
of the western shore detached by mirage and apparently floating in air ; land 
and reflection being indistinguishable, and the horizon melted away. In figure 
two (2) there is the same effect of land and reflection, but there, instead of 
appearing to float in air, it produces the semblance of some strange barge 
moving along the horizon. This horizon, of course, is a false one, and is 
caused by a breeze moving on the nearer water, while that beyond is calm, and 
lost in the sky. 

In color there is a witchery about the mirage far beyond the reach of the 
artist's palette. Thus in figure two (2) the sky was golden gray, absolutely 
dazzling with light, while the island and its reflection was a fiery, yet perfect 
blue. In figure three (3) again an effect of islands floating in air ; the color 
was altogether exquisite. Gold-gray sky, gold-white clouds, with distant water 
same tint as the sky, which it appeared to be. Nearer, the water a pale, almost 
invisible green, crossed not by waves, but with faint blurs of opalescent blue, 
caused by the faintest, gentlest touch of winds. 

There is another beautiful effect, also entirely local. It is seen during the 
calm summer twilight, when the pale, fairy-like tints are breathed upon slightly 
by opposite currents of wind. As they interplay in bands, in points, in shift- 
ing isles of amber, azure, and rose, the whole lake surface shimmers and 
gleams, like a silken robe, studded with countless pearls. 

A world-wide traveler, speaking of the lake as seen from Garfield Beach, 
has said : " Few persons, I think, realize how wonderfully, strangely beautiful 
is this inland sea; " and another, " Where have I not seen sunsets, by land and 
sea, in Asia, Africa, Europe, and America, and where can I say I have seen 
more wondrous coloring, more electrifying effects, than in the Great Salt Lake 
of Utah ! " All of this is true ; but much more could they have said had they 
cruised with us from shore to shore, from north to south, from east to west, 
and viewed it under the magic changes of sunshine, storm, and calm, as we did ; 
had seen it rage beneath the thunderstorms of June, and reflect the gor- 
geousness of color painted on the clouds of autumn ; had watched the weird 
effects of the summer mirage ; had looked upon the strangeness of the desert 
places " where no man comes " that are washed by the waves of that briny sea! 

Alfred Lambourne. 



STANDARD PUBLICATIONS 

— BY THE — 

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Pacific System. 



The Passenger and Ticket Department of the Union Pacific System will take pleasure in forwarding 
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A GL,IMPSE OF GREAT SAI,T 1,AKE. Send 4 cents for postage. ■ 

This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious inland sea, beautifully illus- 
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{Continued on page 40.) 

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(40) 



